Los glaciares

It kind of stinks that I´m paying for internet by the minute because I´ve been staring at the screen for several moments wondering where the heck to begin. Are there words for glaciers? Sure, you´ve got ones like "big" and "ice" and the like, but we must find ones that transcend those and go even beyond words like "unbelievable" and "magestic" and "blue blue blue". I cannot attempt even to describe these moving rivers of ice, for I am still lifting my jaw up off the ground. So I won´t. I´ll simply narrate that Em and Sarah and I awoke several hours before dawn (which is at about 9:30 am here!) to get in a bus to go to El Parque Nacional de los Glaciares. From there, we took a boat out onto the glacier-formed Lago Argentino, whose green-blue waters (called "glacial milk" for their color, which is due to mineral sediments suspended in the water) are fed by several glaciers. In the water floated icebergs, which in some ways were more impressive than the glaciers because we could see them from much closer. You would not believe how blue there are. It didn´t seem real--were these things frozen raspberry ICEEs or water? We even saw one iceberg that had just flipped over and was bobbing (in a monstrous and massively slow way) back and forth trying to rebalance itself. But since the underside was now exposed, we could see that indeed most of the iceberg remains underwater and, because the ice is more compressed there, it is even bluer. Unbelievable. We cruised about the lake a bit, visiting Glaciar Spagazzinni y Glaciar Upsala, the tallest and largest ones in the region. We then docked and hiked a short way over to Lago Ornelli for lunch, where we could see two more glaciers feeding this smaller and much more frozen lake. I will hope that pictures speak a thousand words and all that, since I can´t describe much of what I saw today well enough. Hopefully I can upload them soon. Otherwise, go to google images and type "Patagonia glaciers"...you´ll get the idea.
In the end, the trek we wanted to do on the glaciers proper is not running, so we went with the boat instead. Tomorrow we´ll hike around the park a bit and see Glaciar Perito Moreno, the most famous one here that is known for the icebergs that calve off it.
In other news, I have not resolved the toilet issue as the flush does not seem to go one way or another. I also should say that a "simple" hot chocolate I had on the boat was way better than any one I´ve had at a fancy american coffee shop. Some things are just better here.